Jun 15 2013
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Projects

Finished! Raglan Organza Blouse

Halfway through this blouse I thought, oh god, this is going to be so ugly. I procrastinated terribly, not sure that I wanted to finish the garment let alone photograph it. Now that I am finished, I think it is sort of cute. But I do think I probably chose the wrong pattern for the wrong fabric. This bold floral print was a tough choice, and probably would have worked better as a billowing circle skirt or perhaps a tiered gown for someone with a larger frame than I. (Large floral prints are not the best choice for small people because they tend to make one appear even more diminutive than normal.) But here we have it. And I am really proud of how well made this blouse is. It looks quite expensive on the hanger. The sheer delicacy of the organza is striking, and the edges (neckline, hem, and sleeves) are finished perfectly; plus I love the little tie at the neck. Finally, I feel I know how to make my own bias seam binding and attach it perfectly. Let me know what you think!

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Back view, love the sheer:

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Not too bad, eh?

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Side view:

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Last one:

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Jun 05 2013
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Progress report

Progress Report: Raglan Organza Blouse

Here I am. Late again. But I think you’ll approve of the progress. This blouse has gone through so many design iterations that I won’t bore you with the tedious story of evolution, though I will explain a few limitations that shaped the final design. First, the fabric yardage I had to work with was even less than I thought, forcing me to reduce the amount of bouffant I had originally envisioned for this flowery organza blouse. Resulting instead is a more reserved style, with a refined volume in the form of exaggerated raglan sleeves and an A-line bodice with tucks in the back to follow the curve of the body. The blouse is intended to slip over the head. This is facilitated by a discreet opening on the right raglan style line; a button closure is along the neckline.

Take a look at the muslin sample I produced:

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The back, with tucks:

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Although not an exact rendition of the final design, my silly little model will give you an idea of what the blouse may look like in the organza fabric:

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I have already cut out the pieces. The front bodice will receive an extra layer of black organza underneath for coverage. Notice the difference in transparency here. The front piece is on the left.

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Here is the backing:

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Despite the apparent simplicity of this design, raglan sleeves are actually not that easy to drape and execute. Take a look at the crazy pattern shape:

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As good patternmakers know, attention to small details is crucial, even down to the shape of the half-inch hem allowance on the sleeve. Can you guess why it is shaped this way?

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Look out for the final garment in the next few days, with yours truly as the model.

xo -Tonya

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May 29 2013
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Fabrics, Think about it.

New Direction, Old Fabrics

My Spring 2014 collection has been languishing. Perhaps you noticed. The garments I outlined in the previous post remain pieces that I want to make, but I have decided to take a break from the pressure of a “collection” as I try to figure out where to focus my energy. Instead, this summer I plan to document a few carefully constructed pieces for myself made out of fabrics that I already have on hand:

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I will start with the fabric you see on the top of the pile here. It is a printed silk organza — very sheer — with a dramatic floral motif in black, white, and taupe. I adore this fabric and have pictured it taking the shape of a voluminous blouse with simple lines from the day I purchased it. Thus, I only invested in about a yard and a half of fabric, not enough for a dress. Here is another look, closer up:

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The more minimalist the style lines for my blouse, the better I think, as too much structure would detract from the energy of the floral pattern. Volume will give the print prominence. What kind of garment do you imagine from this fabric?

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Check back in the next few days for a drawing of the final blouse design that I conjured.

I have already started draping and hope to complete the garment by the end of the weekend, with photos of the finished piece posting next week.

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Apr 16 2013
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Spring 2014

Design Flats for Spring 2014

Spring 2014 is slowly taking shape. Here are flat sketches of six initial design concepts. (Click on one of the images below to view at larger size and scroll through the gallery.)

I kept the Victorian detailing subtle, because I wanted the clothes to be practical and wearable. You will notice a focus on collars and lapels, with the bib detail brought into both blouses. Shoulders are gathered and pronounced. There is an echo of the corset and bustle in the coat and dress. The pants feature Victorian menswear detail.

Stand by for the full-color design sketch for the first garment I plan to make (the coat) as well as an update on final fabric selections.

Blouse 1, with Skirt
Blouse 2, with Pants
Coat
Dress
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Mar 21 2013
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Spring 2014

Fabrics!

Although I still have more swatches to gather for Spring 2014, here is a start. One of my favorite parts of designing clothes is choosing the fabrics, in all their colors, textures, and patterns. Oh, the possibilities! Seen here is a mix of cottons and silks mostly, though there are a couple of lightweight wools intended for outerwear. Is this going to be a fun spring, or what? Design sketches will be posted in the next couple of weeks. Stand by.

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Feb 21 2013
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Think about it.

Spring 2014 Preview

Here is a teaser for you: the mood board and colors Spring 2014. The new collection will take inspiration from Victorian imagery, with a nod to the lines and silhouettes of Victorian dress through an emphasis on waists, collars, and lapels. Expect it to be feminine, yet stern, and somewhat irreverent as this inspiration is typically reserved for the fall season. But you won’t find any wool here. Silk, cotton, and linen are the comforts of spring. Fabric swatches will be revealed soon. Make sure to check back — and tell me what you think.

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Jan 09 2013
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Projects

The tank

Just completed, a 100% tissue linen tank top for summer, with my screen print design. This tank has been sized up to an 8, from the original size 2 that I made for myself. Once five of these are completed and mailed out, that will wrap up the final category of rewards for my Kickstarter campaign. At that point, I will finally be able to move on to a new collection! Check back soon for more news.

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Here’s a better view of the print:

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Nov 27 2012
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Projects

Just in time for the Holidays

Now that the Jungle Flora collection is finished, I am working on gifts to send out to the wonderful friends and family members who supported me. In progress are hand-sewn handkerchiefs, with my screen print design. They are made of a beautiful white Italian linen. Despite the delicate appearance, they should hold up well under all sorts of abuse including nose-blowing and machine washing and drying. Indeed these hankies are meant to be used.

The raw cut squares:

The raw kerchief after printing:

Preparing the edge with a 1/8″ fold and press:

A close-up of two different types of hand-sewn edge finishes, a slip stitch and an overcast stitch:

The finished product:

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Nov 04 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Jungle Flora Finale!

Here — at last — are photos of the final garment in the Jungle Flora collection for summer 2013. It took much longer than it should have to complete this final cocktail dress due to three setbacks including: first running out of fabric (poor planning), then spilling red wine on fabric (clumsiness — don’t judge), and lastly becoming distracted by a whirling tropical monster named Sandy (somewhat beyond my control). But– here we are! This cocktail dress is composed of two layers: an under layer of silk charmeuse and an over layer of silk chiffon. The best thing about this garment is that both pieces may be easily slipped over the head. The only closure is a small button and an invisible snap at the back collar. The minimal hardware keeps this garment light and airy. I imagine wearing this dress to a night out on the rooftop of the Met with wine (white wine) in hand. What do you think?

 

Back:

 

Side:

 

And just for fun, my poodle Popcorn performing downward dog at the hem:

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Sep 16 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Finished! Jungle Flora Look #4

I am so relieved to be finished with Look #4, a cocktail dress made of 100% silk charmeuse. I love the drama of the diagonal hem line that falls nearly to the floor at the side, making this dress too formal for daytime, but perfect for an early summer evening out. The bodice is cut on the bias for a close fit that still provides some give. I am fairly pleased with how this look finally turned out, after a revision to the initial design. If produced for retail, this garment would require slightly different finishing techniques. In particular the skirt needs an inner lining that would cover the inside edge of the hem, which is just too conspicuous with the way the skirt falls (i.e., normally one does not see quite so much of the inside hem of the garment). A lining would ensure that the inside was as clean in appearance as the outside. Please share your thoughts!

The back:

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