Rational Construct

Design Flats for Spring 2014

Tonya Lobato — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 23:39:39 +0000

Spring 2014 is slowly taking shape. Here are flat sketches of six initial design concepts. (Click on one of the images below to view at larger size and scroll through the gallery.)

I kept the Victorian detailing subtle, because I wanted the clothes to be practical and wearable. You will notice a focus on collars and lapels, with the bib detail brought into both blouses. Shoulders are gathered and pronounced. There is an echo of the corset and bustle in the coat and dress. The pants feature Victorian menswear detail.

Stand by for the full-color design sketch for the first garment I plan to make (the coat) as well as an update on final fabric selections.

Fabrics!

Tonya Lobato — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 23:55:31 +0000

Although I still have more swatches to gather for Spring 2014, here is a start. One of my favorite parts of designing clothes is choosing the fabrics, in all their colors, textures, and patterns. Oh, the possibilities! Seen here is a mix of cottons and silks mostly, though there are a couple of lightweight wools intended for outerwear. Is this going to be a fun spring, or what? Design sketches will be posted in the next couple of weeks. Stand by.

Spring 2014 Preview

Tonya Lobato — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 22:27:32 +0000

Here is a teaser for you: the mood board and colors Spring 2014. The new collection will take inspiration from Victorian imagery, with a nod to the lines and silhouettes of Victorian dress through an emphasis on waists, collars, and lapels. Expect it to be feminine, yet stern, and somewhat irreverent as this inspiration is typically reserved for the fall season. But you won’t find any wool here. Silk, cotton, and linen are the comforts of spring. Fabric swatches will be revealed soon. Make sure to check back — and tell me what you think.

The tank

Tonya Lobato — Wed, 09 Jan 2013 22:09:29 +0000

Just completed, a 100% tissue linen tank top for summer, with my screen print design. This tank has been sized up to an 8, from the original size 2 that I made for myself. Once five of these are completed and mailed out, that will wrap up the final category of rewards for my Kickstarter campaign. At that point, I will finally be able to move on to a new collection! Check back soon for more news.

Here’s a better view of the print:

Just in time for the Holidays

Tonya Lobato — Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:01:14 +0000

Now that the Jungle Flora collection is finished, I am working on gifts to send out to the wonderful friends and family members who supported me. In progress are hand-sewn handkerchiefs, with my screen print design. They are made of a beautiful white Italian linen. Despite the delicate appearance, they should hold up well under all sorts of abuse including nose-blowing and machine washing and drying. Indeed these hankies are meant to be used.

The raw cut squares:

The raw kerchief after printing:

Preparing the edge with a 1/8″ fold and press:

A close-up of two different types of hand-sewn edge finishes, a slip stitch and an overcast stitch:

The finished product:

Jungle Flora Finale!

Tonya Lobato — Mon, 05 Nov 2012 04:08:07 +0000

Here — at last — are photos of the final garment in the Jungle Flora collection for summer 2013. It took much longer than it should have to complete this final cocktail dress due to three setbacks including: first running out of fabric (poor planning), then spilling red wine on fabric (clumsiness — don’t judge), and lastly becoming distracted by a whirling tropical monster named Sandy (somewhat beyond my control). But– here we are! This cocktail dress is composed of two layers: an under layer of silk charmeuse and an over layer of silk chiffon. The best thing about this garment is that both pieces may be easily slipped over the head. The only closure is a small button and an invisible snap at the back collar. The minimal hardware keeps this garment light and airy. I imagine wearing this dress to a night out on the rooftop of the Met with wine (white wine) in hand. What do you think?

Back:

Side:

And just for fun, my poodle Popcorn performing downward dog at the hem:

Finished! Jungle Flora Look #4

Tonya Lobato — Sun, 16 Sep 2012 18:27:31 +0000

I am so relieved to be finished with Look #4, a cocktail dress made of 100% silk charmeuse. I love the drama of the diagonal hem line that falls nearly to the floor at the side, making this dress too formal for daytime, but perfect for an early summer evening out. The bodice is cut on the bias for a close fit that still provides some give. I am fairly pleased with how this look finally turned out, after a revision to the initial design. If produced for retail, this garment would require slightly different finishing techniques. In particular the skirt needs an inner lining that would cover the inside edge of the hem, which is just too conspicuous with the way the skirt falls (i.e., normally one does not see quite so much of the inside hem of the garment). A lining would ensure that the inside was as clean in appearance as the outside. Please share your thoughts!

The back:

Fashion Week Kicks off in NYC!

Tonya Lobato — Thu, 06 Sep 2012 13:22:29 +0000

With Fashion Week for Spring 2013 just getting underway today in NYC, I am feeling the pressure to wrap up my own mini Spring/Summer 2013 collection, Jungle Flora. Thus far I have completed three of the five looks, and the fourth is off to a good start, although I have decided to once again revisit the original design to produce something more sophisticated and technically sound. (A rough sketch of the new design appears at left and a sneak peek at the evolving pattern is below.) Highlights of the new design include a close-fitting bodice cut on the bias, a dramatically angled skirt that falls in soft folds from the center front to sides at a sharp diagonal, and a very low back. This design keeps the halter neck of the original and will, like the original, be produced in contrasting shades of yellow silk charmeuse: The bodice will be made from a pale butter yellow and the skirt from bright canary (opposite of what is shown in the thumbnail sketch, since I decided that the excitement would best be directed downward using the bright yellow and following the flare of the skirt). Note that the drama of this new design takes the dress a step up from daytime to evening, which I think gives the collection a nice overall balance. I’ll have more significant progress to report by the weekend, and am aiming to complete this look in about a week’s time. Stick around!

As shown here, I have decided to give both the front and the back a dramatic angle on the diagonal falling toward the side, making the skirt appear very long from this perspective:

The front drape shows how the skirt will fall in soft folds from the center angling down toward the side:

This muslin drape is pinned on roughly, but here you can see just how low the back will dip. Also notice the angled seamline running from low back to low hip, which should produce a slimming effect from behind:

Here’s a close up of the bodice, which will features a bias cut and darts for a close fit in front and back:

Finished! Look #3

Tonya Lobato — Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:12:07 +0000

Here is the third look from my Jungle Flora collection. When I first tried on this outfit, I was taken aback by how reserved it seemed, a little too proper perhaps. But I like how it appears in these photos. True, it is sweet and the design is somewhat demure, but the bold colors give it a pop of bravery. The final garments came out very close to the original drawing, except you’ll notice that I decided to arrange the tie of the skirt so that it falls in back. I would love to hear your thoughts on how this look turned out.

Here is the front:

And the back:

And finally, a little wind action, because we like that!

An Inside Look: Jungle Flora Skirt

Tonya Lobato — Sat, 18 Aug 2012 19:32:02 +0000

A friend reminded me yesterday that people do enjoy seeing photos of the progress on my garments. I realize that I have been remiss in keeping everyone up to date on the progress of Look #3, the Jungle Flora skirt and blouse combination shown in the thumbnail here. So, below are some photos that will give you a better idea of the work going into these garments, particularly the skirt since it is nearly done. I will begin sewing the blouse today. If all goes well, both garments should be complete by the end of the weekend with photos posted early next week.

First is a look at the numerous pattern pieces, all cut out and ready to be sewn:

Next is a photo of the outer layer of the back skirt, which is made in silk chiffon. There is a french seam down the center back.

This is a glimpse of the inner layer, made of silk charmeuse, which will feel lovely against the skin. Shown here is the hem being prepared for a hand finishing stitch.

Here is an up-close look at the hand-finishing stitch on the hem, a catchstitch:

Next is a look at the waistband, on the inside inner layer, being prepared with pins for a hand-finishing stitch:

And here is the nearly invisible hand finish, a backstitch, along the inner waistband:

Lastly is a peek at the outer skirt (before waistband is finished) with the inner layer shown underneath: