Tag Archives: Jungle Flora 2013

Nov 04 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Jungle Flora Finale!

Here — at last — are photos of the final garment in the Jungle Flora collection for summer 2013. It took much longer than it should have to complete this final cocktail dress due to three setbacks including: first running out of fabric (poor planning), then spilling red wine on fabric (clumsiness — don’t judge), and lastly becoming distracted by a whirling tropical monster named Sandy (somewhat beyond my control). But– here we are! This cocktail dress is composed of two layers: an under layer of silk charmeuse and an over layer of silk chiffon. The best thing about this garment is that both pieces may be easily slipped over the head. The only closure is a small button and an invisible snap at the back collar. The minimal hardware keeps this garment light and airy. I imagine wearing this dress to a night out on the rooftop of the Met with wine (white wine) in hand. What do you think?

 

Back:

 

Side:

 

And just for fun, my poodle Popcorn performing downward dog at the hem:

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Sep 16 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Finished! Jungle Flora Look #4

I am so relieved to be finished with Look #4, a cocktail dress made of 100% silk charmeuse. I love the drama of the diagonal hem line that falls nearly to the floor at the side, making this dress too formal for daytime, but perfect for an early summer evening out. The bodice is cut on the bias for a close fit that still provides some give. I am fairly pleased with how this look finally turned out, after a revision to the initial design. If produced for retail, this garment would require slightly different finishing techniques. In particular the skirt needs an inner lining that would cover the inside edge of the hem, which is just too conspicuous with the way the skirt falls (i.e., normally one does not see quite so much of the inside hem of the garment). A lining would ensure that the inside was as clean in appearance as the outside. Please share your thoughts!

The back:

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Sep 06 2012
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Progress report

Fashion Week Kicks off in NYC!

With Fashion Week for Spring 2013 just getting underway today in NYC, I am feeling the pressure to wrap up my own mini Spring/Summer 2013 collection, Jungle Flora. Thus far I have completed three of the five looks, and the fourth is off to a good start, although I have decided to once again revisit the original design to produce something more sophisticated and technically sound. (A rough sketch of the new design appears at left and a sneak peek at the evolving pattern is below.) Highlights of the new design include a close-fitting bodice cut on the bias, a dramatically angled skirt that falls in soft folds from the center front to sides at a sharp diagonal, and a very low back. This design keeps the halter neck of the original and will, like the original, be produced in contrasting shades of yellow silk charmeuse: The bodice will be made from a pale butter yellow and the skirt from bright canary (opposite of what is shown in the thumbnail sketch, since I decided that the excitement would best be directed downward using the bright yellow and following the flare of the skirt). Note that the drama of this new design takes the dress a step up from daytime to evening, which I think gives the collection a nice overall balance. I’ll have more significant progress to report by the weekend, and am aiming to complete this look in about a week’s time. Stick around!

As shown here, I have decided to give both the front and the back a dramatic angle on the diagonal falling toward the side, making the skirt appear very long from this perspective:

The front drape shows how the skirt will fall in soft folds from the center angling down toward the side:

This muslin drape is pinned on roughly, but here you can see just how low the back will dip. Also notice the angled seamline running from low back to low hip, which should produce a slimming effect from behind: 

Here’s a close up of the bodice, which will features a bias cut and darts for a close fit in front and back:

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Aug 20 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Finished! Look #3

Here is the third look from my Jungle Flora collection. When I first tried on this outfit, I was taken aback by how reserved it seemed, a little too proper perhaps. But I like how it appears in these photos. True, it is sweet and the design is somewhat demure, but the bold colors give it a pop of bravery. The final garments came out very close to the original drawing, except you’ll notice that I decided to arrange the tie of the skirt so that it falls in back. I would love to hear your thoughts on how this look turned out.

Here is the front:

And the back:

And finally, a little wind action, because we like that!

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Aug 18 2012
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Progress report

An Inside Look: Jungle Flora Skirt

A friend reminded me yesterday that people do enjoy seeing photos of the progress on my garments. I realize that I have been remiss in keeping everyone up to date on the progress of Look #3, the Jungle Flora skirt and blouse combination shown in the thumbnail here. So, below are some photos that will give you a better idea of the work going into these garments, particularly the skirt since it is nearly done. I will begin sewing the blouse today. If all goes well, both garments should be complete by the end of the weekend with photos posted early next week.

First is a look at the numerous pattern pieces, all cut out and ready to be sewn:

Next is a photo of the outer layer of the back skirt, which is made in silk chiffon. There is a french seam down the center back.

This is a glimpse of the inner layer, made of silk charmeuse, which will feel lovely against the skin. Shown here is the hem being prepared for a hand finishing stitch.

Here is an up-close look at the hand-finishing stitch on the hem, a catchstitch:

Next is a look at the waistband, on the inside inner layer, being prepared with pins for a hand-finishing stitch:

And here is the nearly invisible hand finish, a backstitch, along the inner waistband:

Lastly is a peek at the outer skirt (before waistband is finished) with the inner layer shown underneath:

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Aug 02 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Finished! Jungle Flora, Look #2

I did it! I am so excited about this garment because I honestly can’t believe I was able to pull it off without a catastrophic mistake. Chiffon is the most grudging of fabrics; it bestows zero forgiveness if you mess up. In translation: Sew it right the first time or throw it out and start again. The fact that I managed to execute this without rewinding must mean that my patience is improving, along with my focus. Really, it is amazing how mentally draining the production of a garment can be. I was so tired toward the end that I could not remember on the last night how to do a basic hand stitch that I have done a thousand times. A good take away lesson is: When utterly exhausted, set it aside and give yourself a break. Yes, I am still learning. The good news is that I am getting better.

This makes me happy.

Take a look:

The side:

The back:

Another front view:

A little wind action:

A little more wind action!

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Jul 31 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013

Progress Report: Jungle Flora, Look #2

This look is proving to be no easier than the last. Because it is made almost entirely from silk chiffon, the special construction requirements, such as french seaming throughout, are quite time consuming. The skirt has three separate layers of chiffon, akin to sewing three individual skirts: i.e. hems and seams multiplied by three. But because a french seam requires sewing each seam twice, that’s double the number of seams normally required for a skirt in a less demanding fabric. You get the picture. This look equals a lot of work. Here are some snapshots of the process:

Early draping steps:

Another step in the draping process:

The first muslin pieces:

Muslin pieces transferred to paper:

Skirt layout for testing in muslin:

The french seam has been stitched, and now must be trimmed before it can be stitched again:

Here is a finished french seam, about 1/8″ wide. This shot also gives you a good idea of just how sheer and delicate the chiffon fabric is:

Here I have added a strip of selvage to reinforce the shoulder seam of the bodice. Since most of the stress will be focused on this seam, this reinforcement will help the seam carry the weight of the garment and prevent stretching.

Wish me luck as I finish up this garment. Tomorrow begins August — can you believe it?

That means I only have about five weeks left!

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Jun 30 2012
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Jungle Flora 2013, Progress report

Draping, Drafting, and Testing

The first skirt in my Jungle Flora 2013 collection is beginning to take shape. This is a tricky skirt to execute for a few reasons. It is composed of several different pieces, two layers, and an unusual hem line.

I began by draping muslin to see what kind of shape I needed for the under layer, which will be made from the dark green fabric. Then I drafted a rough pattern. Originally, my plan was to have the skirt closure in back, using an invisible zipper.

In the process of making the pattern, I realized that a back zipper would inhibit the movement of the back top layer because the top layer, meant to be free-flowing, would have to be sewn into the back seam along with the zipper and under layer. So I decided to make this skirt a wrap skirt instead. In the end, I think the wrap design will give it a lot more movement. It will also be sooo easy to wear — I love wrap skirts for their simplicity; and if made right, they can look quite elegant.

After finishing the pattern for the under layer, I began to work on the top layer.

I knew I wanted a panel at center front, another at center back, and one on either side. The top layer was relatively easy to draft because it was simply a section cut out from the under layer and slightly elongated.

Next, I drafted the pattern for the waist band and tie, which will be designed in such a way that it can either be tied along the front side for an asymmetrical look, or in back, at the center.

So far the muslin mock-up is looking fairly good, but there are a few things that need adjusted, including the width and angle of the panels so that they fall more gracefully. I hope to make these final pattern adjustments tomorrow. If all goes well, I should be able to cut out the silk in the next day or two. Wish me luck!

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Jun 25 2012
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Think about it.

Kick-Start Me!

I am very excited to report that I have just launched a small campaign on Kickstarter to help fund my 2013 Summer collection, Jungle Flora. You can see a short video explanation by clicking here. If you enjoy seeing my work, please consider supporting me. Thank you!

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Jun 19 2012
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Think about it.

Wet Ink

Here is my first screen print, on a newly designed tank top (click photos for larger view). I’ll post photos of me wearing the tank as soon as the ink dries. I may give a version of these tanks away as part of a small Kickstarter campaign to help fund my upcoming collection, Jungle Flora 2013.

Here is a view of the whole tank. The ink color is a medium gray, so the print is subtle. The silhouette is very feminine (sorry guys — there will be something else for you). Note that the cut of the hem is reminiscent of the Jungle Flora designs; I also gave it a slight ruffle effect. The fabric is 100% linen jersey, super lightweight and slightly sheer. You’ll get a better idea of how it looks once you see photos of me in it, so check back for that post tomorrow.

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